Perfume: the "pyramid" of taste
Participating in an organized lecture hall is different from going to the counter to look for it. Before entering the practical stage, the teacher will talk about some theories to lay a good foundation for the "fragrance" step of noodles, and the most important thing is of course the "pyramid structure" of perfume.
Simply put, perfume contains various spices and ingredients, and their volatilization rates are different. Some smells will catch your nose in an instant, but they will disappear in a few minutes; Others are slowly overflowing and last for three days. This allows a perfume to present a rich three-dimensional sense, and even play a short taste film, from a fresh orchard to a quiet hall. This effect formed the basic idea of perfume structure, which was put into practice in its "Jiqi" perfume in 1889, and since then, it has laid the pyramid structure of perfume's top tone, middle tone and tail tone. Some places also call them head fragrance, base fragrance and tail fragrance.
The front note contains the most volatile components in perfume, which can only last for a short time, maybe a few minutes, and its function is to give people an initial overall impression and attract attention. This is just the first impression of perfume. After the disappearance of the front tone, it is the middle tone, which is also called the core tone. It appears immediately after the front tone, emitting the main fragrance of a perfume, which embodies the most important fragrance type of a perfume and can generally last for 30 minutes to four hours. The last thing that emerges is the tail tone. The lasting fragrance makes it a summary part of the whole perfume, which usually lasts for a day or more. In fact, it is often not the configuration of the perfumer itself that determines the tail tone, but the integration of different body smells and living environment of each of us. Because of the differences in body temperature, gender and environment, the same perfume will often have wonderful and different effects on different people. Some people will mix and match perfumes according to different needs-of course, this is a high-end position. In fact, there is no uniform standard for the classification of fragrance types, which can be roughly divided into floral fragrance type, fruity fragrance type, woody fragrance type, fragrant fragrance type, aldehyde fragrance type and international fragrance type, etc., and the details should be implemented in the trial smell.
? Carefully distinguish, how many incense can you remember?
Smelling incense is a big challenge to the nose. According to legend, the famous French "perfumer" can identify the flavors of more than 4,000 kinds of perfumes only by his nose, and he can know more than 50 ingredients in a perfume at a glance. Of course, it is unrealistic to master this skill without years of pondering. After a few hours of lectures, "broadening the nose" is king. Therefore, the niche brand demeter has become our entry fragrance. Take this brand as an introduction, not because it is classic, but because it is fun enough. Demeter was founded by two big boys in America. Determined to "connect fragrance with memory", they concocted more than 800 perfumes, ranging from single fragrance (such as lilacs, roses, orange blossoms, etc.) to personalized ice cream, marshmallows, and even funny flavors such as sushi, whisky and cigars. In short, there is nothing you can't think of here.
After the antics, some classic famous incense appeared. Among them, there is the famous No.5, the water of Armani, which has won the top three men's fragrances in the world, and the sweetheart who is loved by celebrities ... Of course, this is still a big-name effect after all. There are also some famous European perfumes that can't be named, but have a history of more than 100 years. They are engraved with the royal emblem (indicating that this perfume was once used by the royal family), and with a long aftertaste, they silently tell their own life experience.
Have an emotional appeal and gain something.
Experiencer: Xiaofei's post-80s corporate finance.
For me, the biggest gain in perfume tasting class is that I can catch all the big names I have admired for a long time. Of course, there are surprises and disappointments. For example, j'ador, which is like thunder, smells and feels like the Six Gods to me. Cold water ""although the word cold is the pledge, it smells like powder. But some brands that were not "cold" originally made me fall in love at first sight. For example, a men's perfume in Kenzō Takada, the first impression of the front tone is very comfortable, but surrounded by the middle tone of the ocean fragrance, people always have a fresh feeling like a shower. The fly in the ointment is the common problem of "Japanese perfume": it is too transparent, so it has no depth and the fragrance is not long enough. I also have Bulgari male fragrance with ocean fragrance, but the smell of ozone is too heavy, which makes me feel a little queasy on an empty stomach. However, taste is a very personal choice, and it is the most important thing to suit yourself.